Chicago’s Genuine Bespoke Custom Tailor Shop since 1929 – handcrafting garments of distinction for men and women in the heart of downtown. Every garment is authentic “Bespoke” and proudly made in the USA.
Garments are never sent off shore and then delivered in a box to our customers. Multiple fittings with our in-house tailors guarantee the perfect fit and delivery.
One of the most important steps in making a jacket is the finishing of the collar. Our Master Tailor and Head Designer Ioan Sandru, is currently working on a new sport jacket for a client.
Making the collar is a critical step: when the collar matches a customer’s measurements and posture perfectly, the garment will fit comfortably and look great.
Hand crafting the collar of a jacket is also the most difficult task because it is attached to the both the front and the back of the jacket and needs to be carefully hand placed at several difficult angles. When the collar is placed and fixed properly, the look and fit of the jacket follow and the perfect garment comes together.
The collar naturally gets the most attention since it is the first thing people notice. How many times have you seen an otherwise great looking jacket sitting inches off the neck of it’s owner? This unsightly flaw is usually the result of a machine made, flat as a board and ill-fit ready-made collar.
We take great care in the hand design and placement of every collar on every Bespoke jacket. Each fabric and collar is hand cut to the unique pattern created for every client – reflecting shoulder slope, posture and musculature.
Hand sewing is a critical component of the most detailed aspects of our work. Ioan also uses manual sewing machines for some elements of the garment.
Hand pressing the collar is the final step Ioan must do before attaching it to the jacket. This step, as all steps, is crucial as he carefully shapes the contours of the collar to match the client’s physique in order for the finished garment to hug his neck and allow freedom of movement.
The collar is then hand sewn on the jacket. When Ioan hand sews, he has full control of the strength he gives the collar. A machine may get off course and won’t give the perfect stitch that you get from a hand sewn garment. A hand stitch is also longer and more flexible at the right spots – allowing the garment to give and relax as it is worn.
This work is painstaking and can only be done by the most senior of craftsman. Our tailoring staff boasts over 250 years of combined experience and they put that expertise into every order – so that every garment looks great, wears well and fits perfectly!
Richard Bennett Custom Tailors & Shirtmakers
Chicago’s Finest Custom Tailors Since 1929
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